A travel log for my journey to 10 Jyotir Lingums throughout south and central India, November-December 2002 with my yoga group, Dhyanyoga Centers.

 
Trambekeshwar

It was a relief today not to have to endure a long bus ride, and we actually got to enjoy an extended amount of time at the Trambekeshwar Temple. Once again we "hired" a group of young boys--I think they were bramacharya, or students--to chant the Rudrum for us. There chanting was different from yesterday with more harmonies, but not as polished as the priests in Somnath.

Women were not allowed to do puja to the lingum at this particular temple. Each temple has its own peculiarities. We all were allowed "darshan" or the chance to see the lingum, but it was a funky set-up where you got a better view of the action looking in a tilted mirror.

Someone explained to me that the entire Trambekeshwar structure was hewn from one piece of stone. It certainly seemed much more ancient than Somnath, which we know was not. I hunted down booklet in English that explains all the Jyotir Lingums so I hope to look at that after dinner tonight.

The group had a little time for temple shopping, which everyone enjoyed. I think we have a longer drive tomorrow, but are going to a Shani Temple on the way. Shani, astrologically in India, is Saturn. Translated, it means "slow-moving" I believe. Often, this can be a strong aspect in an individual's birthchart, as it is for me, so anything that can be done to appease Shani is a good idea as far as I am concerned!
posted by Lydia at 8:39 AM

 
Back to a Taj Hotel in Nashik

Today was strictly a travel day, first with a flight from Rajkot to Bombay, then a long busride from Bombay to Nashik. We are back in a Taj Hotel, which is much much nicer than the Hotel Aditya in Rajkot, Gujarat. I was left under that impression that Rajkot was not especially economically developed. In my mind, one example of evidence of this would be that very few of the signs for businesses were in both English and Gujarati (or Hindi as in Bomday). However, we were not in Rajkot to study economic opportunities, but rather it was a place to land before taking the 4.5 hour bus ride to Somnath.

Somnath is the location for one of the Jyotir Lingums. As I understand it, however, the original lingum (a representation of Lord Shiva) was destroyed by the Mogul Invaders. The last invasion was in the middle of the 18th c. The present temple was not rebuilt until the 1950s.

What disenchanted me intially was the incredibly high level of security. Not only were cameras forbidden, a common frustration for me in most of the temples we have gone too so far, but simple electronics, like my organizer, and even coconuts. I guess the message this should send back to everyone at home is that even though we are all being very inconvenienced by security in airports and temples, I guess I should feel safer...I do sometimes, but after the fact.

The big Somnath temple by the ocean was beautiful, and the noontime arati was very exciting with lots of ghee lamps, clanging bells, and the beating of drums, but along with this was a rather typical pushy crowd. I notice that many people in our group get out of the way for the locals, but my attitude is a little more chavalier, in that we are the ones to have traveled a great distance to see this place.

What was special about Somnath was a smaller temple nearby which is now considered the home of the Jyotir Lingum. It seemed to be run by a team of younger priests, all very helpful and enthusiastic about our desire to do a puja. Also, these gracious men were renounded for their ability to chant a beautiful Rudrum, a hymn to Lord Shiva, which we all enjoyed. Granted, we rewarded them for their services handsomely, but supporting them was a pleasure.

Tomorrow we visit Trambesheshwar...more soon.
posted by Lydia at 11:09 AM

 
Bombay shopping report

If you are ever in Bombay around the Mangaldas Market, and some guy hands you a card with the words ZAMEER Silks on it, throw it away and run the other way! These shops have bait-men, who lure you into their shops, saying come to "my" shop (it's not their shop at all), and then trying to sell you all kinds of stuff you aren't interested in. My complaint was that I wanted a punjabi pantsuit that fit. It was taylored well, but not lined, so it is see through. Properly done, it should have been lined without me asking. I plan on calling this morning, and complaining, but it's a good story to tell for less than $20 (the cost of the sheer punjabi).

I had good success finding gold earrings, fabric trim, some cotton mercernized yarn (which is much more expensive in the US), a couple silk scarfs and the like. I cannot seem to communicate that I would like to buy silk for spinning, though, because every time I ask, I get shown fabric. Also, I do not think it's too likely that I will be finding a charka spinning wheel in Bombay. Besides that, my suitcase is full...I may have to purchase another one of those!

This afternoon we fly out to Rajkot, to the Somanoth Temple. I may not have PC access for a couple of days, so I will check in with you all as soon as I can.

posted by Lydia at 9:44 PM

 
Monday morning in Bombay

Both my roommates were up and down all night, one of them remaining very ill, not being able to hold down even water. A doctor is supposed to come to the hotel this afternoon to check on several members of the group. Again, I am grateful to be feeling well. Yes, getting out of the hotel and away from some of the drama of the trip itself was important to my mental health this morning.

Walking around the streets of Bombay solo is a little scarey, but I try to keep on the move. The vibe here is much like New York City. I ducked into this CyberCafe not only because it was much for affordable at 20 rupees per hour very 250 for a 1/2 in the hotel, but to also get my bearings and cool off a little bit before I head back out to do some shopping.

So far this trip has been pushing the boundaries of my patience, somewhat to my chargin. Of course I want this experience to be magical and uplifting, but the reality is a little different sometimes, especially when there needs to be a revolving door installed for the bathroom in our hotel room! Trying to share a small hotel room with two other people here in Bombay has been especially hard. You would think given the granduer of the hotel that the rooms would be more spacious, but this is not the case. Tucked away in this little cybercafe has been the most comfortable I have been in days...*enjoying a deep breath*

Most of the folks on this trip are rather plain, granola-y types, so the grandeur of these Taj Hotels is rather discombobulating to them. For instance, I feel uncomfortable NOT tipping the bellhop 10 rupees per bag (about $.25), whereas my roommates might think this is unnecessary. I get aggitated that these small amounts of money are even an issue. It is not worth my time to even debate whether or not to tip, if I want to, I do.

However, the fact of the matter is that we all feel more comfortable in the more pastoral parts of India, despite the fact that these areas take hours to drive to. For instance, the distance to Srisailam from Hyderabad was 235 km (about 146 miles) but it took about 6-7 hours to get there. Granted, we stopped about a 1/2 hour for lunch and another couple rest breaks, but the real issue is that there are no highways, per se, in India, at least none that I could determine. Driving through Bombay last night was the fastest we've traveled, since the roads here, though busy, are in good repair. On the regular roads not only are slower vehicles as issue, but often the bus must slow or stop for a herd of goats or a few cows.

Well, after a little drink of water, I think I will try to shop again. Wish me luck!

Namaste for now.
posted by Lydia at 1:08 AM

 
Well, since the business centre gentleman said I had 10 more minutes to use, I thought I would try to blog a little more.

The trip so far has been hard on many of us, and unfortunately it probably will not ease up for another week. The constant traveling is taking its toll on many of us, including one of my roommates.

I feel rather fortunate. Other than a cough, which I attribute in a large part to the pollution, my health has been very good. Looking around at the ground in the Hyderabad airport tonight, everyone looked quite wiped out, but everyone was glad for the Srisailam puja experience.

I hope to find someone to go fabric and fiber shopping with me tomorrow, but I suspect that most people are more interested in books and gold. I wouldn't mind a nice pair of earring though....hmmmmmm

More soon.
posted by Lydia at 1:37 PM

 
Greetings friends,

We arrive late in Bombay tonight, after leaving Srisailam after breakfast this morning. It has been a long day, but visiting the Shiva Temple in Srisailam has been the high point of my trip so far.

One of the reasons I come to India again and again is that I feel deeply connected to it. Well, I went through a couple of days of disenchantment, mostly due to airport security (I have had to fight with them not to put my film through the Xray machines--maybe a couple of times through is o.k., but not over a dozen times, as we are taking at least that many flights inside India), long bus rides, and some roommate issues (we are sleeping 3 to a room to save money).

Srisailam brought me back to experiences I treasure from the Himalayas. While Srisailam is in Andhra Pradesh, it is a foothill like area. We stayed in a guest house that was very basic, but clean and comfortable enough to suit me. It was refreshing compared to the veneer of the fancy Taj hotels we are staying at in the bigger cities. The very area itself was permeated with sounds a chanting and the smell of incense. People here were still very curious toward us. As I understand it Westerns are very rare in Srisailam, but they were not as pushy.

While it took some time for our guides to negotiate our being able to actually get a close-up experience with the Jyotir Lingum at the Shiva Temple, it was well worth the wait. The next time you see me, ask me about the electric drum machine there. It was wild!

Shopping in Bombay tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Until next time....
posted by Lydia at 1:25 PM